Climbing Mount St. Helens: A complete guide (for July-September summit)

Climbing Mount St. Helens is a bucket list worthy experience. As a Washington hiker, it was on my list for years before I finally was able to climb Mount St. Helens in 2024. The trail is a bit different from most trails, with specific rules and considerations you’ll want to keep in mind as you plan your visit. Read on for all the information on permits for Mount St. Helens, when to hike, how to prepare, information on the climb itself, where to stay near the trail, and more!

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Training for climbing Mount St. Helens

To climb Mount St. Helens, you don’t need to be a professional athlete. But it’s a big enough challenge that I do recommend training for it. While hiking is often a mental game, where you can do a lot more than you think you can if you’re mentally strong enough, this trail is truly a big one. You will enjoy it more if you are in better shape.

To train for the Mt. St. Helens climb, I went to the gym a couple times a week and did the stair machine for 20-30 minutes, then lifted weights.

 

I also was hiking regularly throughout the entire summer…with a 40 pound child carrier backpack on. While I never reached anything close to 10 miles (or 4,000 feet gain, for that matter), I do think training with a heavy pack really helped. So pack hikes can be a good alternative to training on more difficult/longer trails, and you can still train with less of a time commitment to do so.

The biggest hikes I did before hiking Mt. St. Helens were Mt. Pilchuck (5.5 miles, 2,300 feet elevation gain), Annette Lake (7.5 miles, 1,800 feet elevation gain), and Chain Lakes Loop (7 miles, 1,800 feet of gain). I recommend hiking at least every other weekend in the months leading up to your climb.

Mount St. Helens Trail: The basic information

Mount St. Helens is located in southwest Washington, about 3.5 hours from Seattle and about 1.5 hours from Portland. The volcano can be hiked throughout the entire year, with different routes for different seasons.*

The summer route is the Monitor Ridge trail, which begins at Climber’s Bivouac. The start of the trail is actually the Ptarmigan Trail, which takes you to the start of the Monitor Ridge route. The trail is 10 miles long and covers 4,500 feet of elevation gain (basically, it’s incredibly steep). It is classified as a strenuous hike, and involves rough terrain of boulder fields and volcanic ash. Dogs are not allowed on the trail, and advanced reservation permits are required for April-October climbs. It’s estimated to take between 7 to 12 hours to complete the hike.

 

*The focus of this post will be on the summer route, but you can find more information on the winter route here.

When to climb Mount St. Helens

Mount St. Helens can be summited year round. Some hikers say that winter summits are actually the best because you can glissade down parts of the mountain (glissade=sliding down on your bottom). However, if you want to hike in snowy conditions, you need an ice ax, crampons, and self-rescue skills.

This is why I would recommend climbing Mount St. Helens in the months of July-September, when the risk of snow is reduced and hikers without special gear or experience can enjoy the mountain. I originally reserved a permit for mid-June and it was still snowy, so I cancelled it and elected to try again. Ultimately, I hiked successfully in mid-September.

Personally, I would only choose to do this hike with a relatively clear forecast. I’m not one to want to work hard with no payoff if I can avoid it!

The trail is very exposed, so if you’re hiking in July or August, it could be pretty hot. You’ll want to have great sun protection and start the hike early in the morning to avoid summitting in the peak heat of the day. Starting around 5 or 6 am is a good plan. We started at 6 am and got back to our car at 3 pm. This included 1 hour and 10 minutes on the summit as well as about 15-20 minutes of smaller breaks on the climb up.

Mount St. Helens climbing permit

You’ll need a permit to climb Mt. St. Helens any time of year, but during the months of April-October, the permits are reservable online and limited to 350 (April 1-May 15) or 110 (May 16-October 31) per day. The permits are released on the recreation.gov site at 7 am PT the first of the month prior to the month you want to reserve for (for example, June 1st is when all July availability is released).

You will want to have an account already created on recreation.gov prior to permit release day. Ensure you are logged in and on the page before 7 am PT, and refresh the page as soon as it hits 7 am. Quickly input the number of hikers in your group (limit is 12) and select your day.

The weekend days will reserve out extremely quickly during peak season (within 5 minutes), especially Saturdays. It’s a good idea to have a few dates in mind in case you can’t snag your top choice permit date. The cost of the permit is $20 per person and a $6 reservation fee per reservation.

Permits require you to include the names of all climbers. The group leader cannot be changed, but other hikers can be swapped out if your group changes until one week before your climb date. Once you print your permit, no changes can be made. All hikers will need to carry a copy of the permit and a government ID.

Where to stay near Mount St. Helens

There are a few options for where to stay near the trailhead. If you’re looking for a hotel, the best option is the Lone Fir Resort which is about 30 minutes from the Mt. St. Helens trail.

If you want to camp, you can camp at the trailhead. There are 14 first come, first served campsites, and you can also sleep in your car at the trailhead parking area. Note that there is no source of water in the campground or parking lot, so you will need to bring all water for your night and your hike.

 

Alternatively, you can camp at Cougar Rock RV Park and Campground which is about 40 minutes from the trailhead. It has basic tent sites, cabins, and even showers.

Parking at Mount St. Helens

For climbing Mt. St. Helens via the Climbers Bivouac trailhead, you can park right at the parking lot at the trailhead. However, you’ll need either an America the Beautiful pass (the annual national parks and forests pass) or the Northwest Forest Pass. You should plan to purchase one of these and bringing it with you to the trailhead.

Mount St. Helens hiking map

If you are looking for a Mt. St Helens hiking map, the Climbers Bivouac trailhead area has one posted that you can take a photo of. However, I recommend downloading the offline map from AllTrails Pro so that you can use it on your hike. This will allow you to see if you’re on trail or not even without cell service.

 

Some parts of the trail are very easy to follow, but there are a couple spots where I was glad I could consult my offline map. It was most difficult to follow the trail down from the boulder field to the forest.

Climbing Mount St. Helens: the trail up the mountain

The Mt. St. Helens trail can be broken into three chunks: the Ptarmigan trail, the boulder field, and the volcanic ash and sand.

The Ptarmigan trail is a forested hike through lush groves with some stunning southern views as you climb. It lasts about 2 miles and climbs approximately 1,000 feet in elevation. You don’t need a permit to hike this portion of the trail, and you’ll likely run into backpackers and day hikers who are not climbing Mt. St. Helens here.

 

The boulder field is the second portion of the trail. It lasts about 2 miles and climbs 2,500 feet in elevation gain. This is where the trail gets completely exposed (and remains exposed the entire climb). You will want to have the ability to use your hands to help navigate this portion of the trail at times.

 

The boulder field is as high level of scrambling as you can do without being considered bouldering. There is not a real trail, so you’ll be picking your way up (and down) across boulders while keeping an eye on the wooden trail markers that indicate the general direction you should be going.

This portion of the trail is challenging because you will be taking large steps, using your upper body, and experiencing some different types of footing and movement. Prepare for big steps and sore glutes and thighs! Additionally, it’s recommended to bring gardening gloves to protect your hands during the boulder field portion of the climb, as the rocks are rough.

 

The final portion of the trail is the one mile climb in volcanic ash and sand to the summit, where you’ll gain the final 1,000 feet in elevation. This is the most challenging area for many (myself included) because you’re already tired, and each step causes you to sink and slide back down.

 

Also, the sand and ash is not as fun as the boulder field, which while challenging, is kinda cool to find your way up. It’s definitely a slow trek up to the crater rim. Don’t forget to stop and look back at the views when you take your breaks!

Finally, you’ll reach the summit, and get to see the breathtaking views of the crater itself and all the surrounding peaks. Mount St. Helens is the most active volcano in the cascades range, and you’ll be able to see the steam rising from the crater.

 

Beyond the crater is Spirit Lake and Mt. Rainier. To the east you can see Mt. Adams, and in the south, Mt. Hood and Mt. Jefferson. Take a moment to appreciate the layers of forest and mountains–on a clear day, the views are incomparable.

 

Be sure to stay a safe distance away from the cornice (the edge) as it can be unstable. If there are flags on the summit (there were when we went) this means they are marking a dangerous area so stay back.

 

On your return hike, be sure to keep an eye on the wooden poles marking the way down. We kept them close to us on our left so we could stay “on trail”. It’s easier to follow the trail on the way down than on the way up in the boulders because you’ll have the advantage of perspective from above.

 

The trickiest area is when you exit the boulder field. We went the wrong way and had to use my offline map when the “trail” we were on seemingly disappeared. It’s very easy to get off trail here so pay attention. You want to end up at the forest trail, not the wrong part of the forest.

 

Once you’re back in the forest, it’s easy going. Celebrate finishing the worst of the trail and take it easy on the final descent. You’ve earned it!

What about bathrooms? A note about going to the bathroom while hiking Mt. St. Helens

If you need to go to the bathroom while hiking Mt. St. Helens, you’re not alone. On a trail this long, you’re bound to need to go!

There is one bathroom along the Ptarmigan Trail, shortly before exiting the forest. You’ll see a side trail on your right (on your way up). That is the only facility available.

The rest of the trail is fully exposed, with no services, so if you need to use the bathroom, you’ll have to find a place to hide. I did so myself twice during the exposed portion of the trail and had no issues.

If you have to poop, you’ll need to use a wag bag. There are supposed to be “blue bags” available at the trailhead, but the day we hiked, there were none. Be sure to bring your own bags. It may feel gross to carry your own poop down, but it’s necessary to keep the trail clean and safe. I recommend getting wag bags and then also bringing a ziploc to store it in just in case.

What to pack for hiking Mount St. Helens

• Hiking boots: These Lowa boots have been incredible. They have great traction and support and did great on the trail. (men’s here)
• Wool hiking socks: essential for any day hike, my favorites are probably these Darn Tough socks, because they are guaranteed for life. If it tears, you can send it back!
• Hiking bottoms: Depending on when you do the climb, you may want shorts or you may want pants. I opted for these leggings in mid-September and I was very comfortable. I also love Cotopaxi and these top-rated leggings are a great option for earlier summer months when it might be hot, and they’re at a lower price point. I do run hot though. My friend opted for Smartwool base layer bottoms and a pair of hiking pants on top.
• Hiking top: I started out with a merino wool long sleeve, but it got a bit warm for me, and I ended up changing into a tank top and sun hoodie for the majority of the trail. Again this will depend on when you hike and if you tend more towards cold or hot.

 

• Fleece layer: My Cotopaxi fleece jacket is my go-to. Amazing colors, super warm! Men’s here
• Down jacket: I am enormously obsessed with my Cotopaxi down jacket, too (men’s here) The jacket is soft, made in bright and gorgeous colors, and is just perfect.
• Rain jacket: Always important to be prepared, in case it rains, a good rain jacket is key
• Hiking backpack: I love my Gregory pack! I recommend getting a hydration backpack for easy access to water during your hike.
• Beanie and gloves (men’s here): for quickly changing mountain conditions
• Trekking poles: an absolute must for this hike in my opinion, particularly for the final portion of the trail in ash and sand, but useful for much of the trail (except parts of the boulder field where you will want to use your hands to climb over rocks). Get a highly rated pair of trekking poles here.
• Gaiters for the ash and sand: Some people recommend using these for the ash and sand portion of the trail. I was just in leggings and felt fine about getting them dusty, but I also had high boots on that did a great job of protecting my feet. You may want some gaiters if you’re going to hike in hiking shoes or more of a running style of shoes. They’re also super helpful in winter for snowy areas so they’re definitely multi-use.
• Sunscreen
• Sunglasses
• Water reservoir: It is recommended to bring at least 4 liters of water to climb Mt. St. Helens. This 2.5 liter reservoir is a great start. I also recommend bringing hydration drinks for at least one of the liters. I brought a large and small gatorade, in addition to 3.5 liters of water, and did not use it all (but was very glad I had it! If it had been hotter, I would have drunk more).
• Plenty of snacks and food. I brought peanut butter and carrots, two pumpkin granola bars, overnight oats with banana and pecans, cheez-its, an apple, a bar of dark chocolate, mixed salted nuts, and a peanut butter sandwich. I did not eat it all, but that is what you want! You should always have more food than you need, just in case. I also recommend leaving a yummy non-melting treat in your car for a little post-hike reward.
• Garmin Mini InReach: for ultimate peace of mind, there’s nothing better than a satellite GPS/emergency communication tool. Maps, SOS buttons, and more!
• AllTrails Plus: I love AllTrails ability to download offline maps of trails. Super helpful for safety and route finding. 100% worth the yearly cost.
• Emergency bivy: With rapidly changing mountain conditions, this is a lightweight easy add to your pack for safety.
• First aid supplies: It is always a good idea to carry a kit, and even more so on a big hike like this one

Climbing Mount St. Helens conclusion

Climbing Mount St. Helens is a bucket-list worthy experience that is 100% worth the hard work to complete. The views from the summit are truly stunning, and the feeling of accomplishment is pretty great, too. You may be itching to plan your next adventure by the time you get back to your car!